“Jordan seeks to play only one role, that of a model state. It is our aim to set an example for our Arab brethren, not one that they need follow but one that will inspire them to seek a higher, happier destiny within their own borders.” – King Hussein I
Jordan shares with Israel the coastlines of the Dead Sea, and the Gulf of Aqaba with Israel, Saudi Arabia, and Egypt. At the northern End of the Red Sea, situated in the Gulf of Aqaba, which is about 170 km long and 15 km wide, are the two cities of Aqaba and Eilath (Israel). It is here where we find the closest tropical reefs to Europe. Only a small patch of Jordan’s border in the south has access to the sea, limiting the possibilities for scuba diving to this region. The only bigger patch of water elsewhere would be the Dead Sea but due to its high density of salt – 30 per cent compared to 8 per cent normally found in the sea – it is impossible to dive there. The dive sites of Jordan have never been as heavily marketed as its Egyptian counterparts. Therefore, it is very hard if not almost impossible to compare the two. But what can be said is that Aqaba, hosting the busiest port in the whole Red Sea, has some truly marvellous spots to explore.
But there is more to Jordan than the Harbour of Aqaba . If you have a day off during your stay, we suggest a visit to the two thousand year old city of Petra. Although much has been written about Petra, nothing really prepares you for this amazing place.
Alternatively, you might want to visit the Wadi Rum – a wadi is a dry riverbed that only contains water during times of heavy rain. Stunning in its natural beauty, Wadi Rum epitomizes the romance of the desert. Several Bedouin tribes who live in scattered camps throughout the area inhabit the area of Wadi Rum with its “moonscape” of ancient valleys and towering sandstone mountains rising out of the sand.
Diving in Aqaba leaves you with several very distinct possibilities. Aquarium for example is an especially nice site for a house reef. Acropora branching coral, Dendronephthya soft coral, elephant ear, cabbage coral, lots of sponges and some black coral at depth provide an excellent setting for a profuse marine life. Remember not to leave your camera at the resort as you would miss the opportunity to capture lionfish, snappers, brilliantly coloured anthias, dottybacks, pufferfish, grouper, lots of emperors, sweetlips, trumpetfish, scorpions, pipefish, damsels, angelfish and basslets. Away from the reef and onto the sand you will get the opportunity to spot flatfish as well as blue- and blackspotted stingrays.
A wonderful alternative to Aquarium is Black Rock, a reef consisting of large pinnacles and tower formations in the shallows. Steeper than the other reefs Black Rock offers an astonishing variation of different corals, both hard and soft. Unfortunately, the reef suffered some visible damage dating back to the earthquake in 1995 and, because of the onshore campsite, there is some amount of debris in the inshore sections. Yet Black Rock is still a healthy and very attractive reef boasting with dendronephthia, elephant ear, xeniid, cabbage corals, anemones as well as other soft, semi-soft and hard corals. It is in this setting, that you are likely to spot a turtle or two. Other local marine inhabitants include species such as snappers, lyretail and other grouper, wrasse, parrotfish, scorpionfish, lionfish, puffers, sailfin surgeonfish, butterflyfish, boxfish, triggerfish and emperors.
Are you still looking for more exquisite coral growth waiting to be explored? Two sites that appeals to novices and experienced divers alike and should be on any divers itinerary are Gorgonian I & II. Gently sloping down to a depth of 30 m (100 ft) Gorgonian I has everything one could wish for making it one of the finest coral sites in the Gulf of Aqaba. And if that was not already enough, Gorgonian I has a profuse marine life to boot. Parrotfish, lionfish, scorpions, groupers, vividly coloured butterflyfish and angelfish intertwine with sea turtles, mostly hawksbill. Gorgonian II, a bit further south is in many ways very similar to Gorgonian I. Some of the coral attractions of this site include big brommie formations and pinnacles of stony corals. Some species that inhabit this spot include wrasses, small pipefish, lyretail cod, scorpionfish of different types and morays as well as trumpetfish.
If wrecks are what you fancy, you definitively do not want to miss the following two sites, the first one being called quite simply Ship Wreck. This site marks the spot of a tanker that was scuttled in 1985 with the sole purpose of enjoying local divers. With its port side on a sandy bottom at 30 m (100 ft) this 80 m (262 ft) long ship lies about 50 m (164 ft) offshore at the foot of a sand and sea-grass slope offering its most interesting diving on the seaward side. The accessible parts of the ship include the large tank areas and much of the superstructure although local centres disencourage from doing the latter. In the north of the site the most impressive view will unfold in front of the diver as the ship’s stern, complete with propeller, rises from the bottom. Over time, the wreck has been covered more and more by soft corals and Dendronephthya. Numerous Emperors, wrasses, triggerfish, boxfish, big snappers, groupers, trumpetfish, damsels, sergeant major fish and basslets simply add to the fascination of this dive. Frequent visitors to this dive also include jacks and barracudas.
The second dive that could be of interest to all fans of wreck diving isn’t that of a ship but of an American M40 Anti-aircraft tracked vehicle, originally in employ of the Jordanian Army. Scuttled September 1, 1999 by the Jordanian Royal Ecological Diving Society this Anti-Aircraft has often been mistaken as being from Russian origin. This cannot be true as the compressed air start tanks at the back of the engine bay are marked with a working pressure noted in PSI. If it were indeed of Russian origin, it would be marked in bar or kilopascals. Regardless of its origin, the M40 Anti-aircraft has developed into a popular site for divers and snorkellers alike.
Several major dive destinations boast with a site called Japanese Garden. Aqaba makes no exception. Being known as one of the prettiest areas in Aqaba it is far from being just rocks and stones as the picture of a Japanese Garden would imply. This site boast with a fantastic flora and fauna and is known for formations of hawksbill turtles, barracudas, fusiliers and countless sergeant majors intertwining in a wonderful setting of corals.