Event: Malawi

Hiking Mount Mulanje

When:	1 May - 31 Jul 2008 (annual)
Where:	Mount Mulanje

Mount Mulanje rises from the plains of southern Malawi like a fortress. Its steep cliffs protect a 250-square-mile wilderness of granite peaks, dense forest, grassy meadows and rippling streams - a beautiful place for a walk.

Mulanje village is the place to hire a guide (essential) and porters, as well as buy any provisions that you forgot to pick up in Blantyre. Amused locals watch you set off, weighed down by a full backpack.

The first day's hike is tough as you wind up steep mountain paths - watch in amazement as locals jog past you with massive piles of timber balanced on their head. But once you reach the top, you enter an enchanting landscape.

There are several wood huts where you can sleep and enough trails for days of walking. Climbers can scale some of the peaks, while the impressive granite crags also provide some tough challenges. For hikers, there are walking routes to the top of most of the mountains - including Sapitwa, Malawi's highest peak at just over 3000 metres - but most people are content to follow the paths through valleys, over ridges and across plains. When you need to freshen up, there are are cool swimming holes.

The huts are basic but well-kept. Watching the wonderful sunsets, building a fire, cooking food and feeling the weight of your pack go down is a fine end to the day.

There are various ways off the massif. One follows the crest of plunging cliffs (requiring a good head for heights) with incredible views of a waterfall that plunges hundreds of feet into the jungle. The bananas from the village below are a welcome relief from canned food. But be warned - it's a long trek out to the road unless you can hitch a ride on a truck in the tea plantations. They're not meant to help hikers, but they often take pity on weary walkers.

The best time to hike is in the early dry season (May to July) when temperatures are fairly low (it can get quite cold at night on the plateau). Be prepared for a little rain whenever you visit.