Event: Greece

Anastenaria

When:	21 - 23 May 2008 (annual)
Where:	Langada

Every year, barefoot villagers of Ayia Eleni near Serres, and of Langada near Thessaloniki, get themselves worked up into a trance before walking over hot coals. It's all in honour of Saints Helen and Constantine, although the tradition of Anastenaria dates back to pagan times.

Those celebrating the Anastenaria are descendants of refugees from Eastern Thrace who arrived in Greece in the 1920s. Each village community of Anastenarides is headed by a "group of twelve" (largely women) who gather in the konaki, which houses the special icons of Saints Constantine and Helen. These are draped with large red kerchiefs (simadia), which are believed to possess the power of the icons.

On the eve of the feast of Saints Constantine and Helen the Anastenarides gather in the konaki, and work themselves into a trance-like state through hours of devotional dancing. They believe that during the dance they are "seized" by the saints. The next day, a ritualistic sacrifice of animals takes place.

After lunch the Anastenarides gather again and resume their dancing. A candle is lit from one of the oil lamps in front of the icons, and is used to light a bonfire. When the wood burns, coal is spread down. Initially the Anastenarides dance barefoot around the hot ashes, but when the saints moves them, individuals run across the burning coals. Sometimes devotees kneel down beside the fire and pound the ashes with the palms of their hands. This continues until the ashes are cool.

During the next two days, the Anastenarides process around the village visiting each house in a counter-clockwise direction. On 23 May they conclude with a second dance over the fire, although this one is in private and not for tourists to gawp at.